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Art of the Shampoo

Roots Radicals Salon • March 28, 2023

Have you ever wondered why you've gone through so many expensive shampoos and conditioners only to be left feeling betrayed by the stellar reviews and recommendations? Why do you own so many half empty bottles of products recommended by a stylist, magazine article or swindled by clever marketing?


Let's address the first issue: How often do you shampoo? If you just said every day I might have just cringed a little. It's a vicious cycle to break but for most people it can be done. Now keep in mind, this is not a one size fits all approach to hair care. I will break it down by hair types and specifics but always ask your trusted and knowledgeable hair stylist for their daily regimen suggestions.


Shampooing everyday, for really fine hair, sometimes is a necessity but try to keep it during the work week in order to give hair/scalp/wallet a break. For those that find themselves excessively sudsing up, make sure you "lube" your hair up before the actual deed by running a light hair oil throughout your strands before you shampoo. It acts as a buffer from the drying effects of shampoo. For fine hair, I recommend misting with a product like Repair Emulsion from Aestalance. It won't leave hair greasy afterwards. For thicker drier hair try jojoba oil, Aestalance's Repair Oil or Shu Uemura's Essence Absolue depending upon your hair budget. I am a huge fan of coconut oil but not for hair. It is drying - contrary to popular belief. I've seen it just coat hair and little else. I've seen it work miracles on my daughter's eczema. I like to cook with it. Just don't put it on your hair. Use jojoba oil. It's closer to our own sebum (natural oils). We don’t want build up. We want the exact opposite. Clean hair that can accept moisture.


Now to the art of actually shampooing your scalp. Yes that's right, your scalp. Not your hair. Meaning if you have long enough hair for a ponytail, you're only going to shampoo what makes up the top portion of your pony. The other side of the ponytail holder is meant for conditioner only! What you rinse from your scalp will cleanse the mid shaft and ends. Trust me, it's sufficient. Now, my curly haired girls if you’re shampooing once a week and have a coarse hair shaft and/or low porosity, then you’re going to start detangling with your shampoo. Raking your fingers through. This does not mean aggressively rubbing shampoo on ends. No one should be aggressive when it comes to their hair or body. It is our temple, treat it as such. In my opinion, no one should go longer than a week without shampooing (aside from health issues). With your salon quality shampoo, start with a half dollar sized dollop and add water to emulsify, not more shampoo. You're probably used to using too much. Have your shampoo and conditioner be the first thing you do in the shower. Your conditioner will be the last thing you rinse before you get out. That way you have enough time for your conditioner (mask) to stay on and do more. My mantra "everyone has time for a hair mask". If you shower you do and, well, we know you shower.


Pay close attention to massaging your shampoo in and not just mussing your hair around your head. The purpose is to break up sebum and other deposits on the scalp and stimulate the hair follicles. Now, after you've finished properly shampooing and rinsing well, squeeze out as much water as possible. I find towel drying a little excessive because, let's face it, most of us won't do it. Also I like a little slickness in the hair, it allows for ease of application and stretches the product out better. Using less is more. Start conditioner application at the bottom and work your way up. In doing so, your product placement is going to where it needs it the most. Hair is dead (that’s right gals and guys!) but the ends are really really dead. So show them love. For fine hair stop at the mid shaft. For thicker, dry, or curly hair it's ok to apply the remainder of conditioner to the top. It shouldn't weigh it down if you're using a salon quality and suited for your hair type product. Again, proceed with caution - don’t get a fresh dollop for your scalp!


Leaving a Wet Brush (the best detangling brush EVER) in your shower is key! Wide tooth combs are a thing of the past, relics to be scoffed at. In all seriousness, a detangling brush is the most unsung weapon in your hair arsenal. Brush your conditioner through for even distribution. Clip it up and out of the way, that way the ends, where it's needed the most, stays saturated and out of the spray of the shower head. Once you're ready to get out make sure to rinse out your conditioner well. I don't believe in leaving some in for use as a leave in. That can lead to build up and an unattractive sheen that robs you of the truly clean hair shine. If it's not a leave in then don't leave it in. Wrap hair in your towel or pat dry instead of aggressively rubbing the towel around your head. That roughs up the cuticle and can create frizz or even breakage on fragile strands! You need a microfiber turban! It will change your life.


Last but definitely not least, let's briefly tackle the second issue. You have bought so many products and you're sick of hearing what's the next new hot thing you'll be wasting money on. If you start changing how you use your products, like we discussed, then you might like the ones you already have, or this will help you find ones you'll love. For fine, frequent shampooers, blondes highlighted or natural, and chemically stressed/over processed hair a gentle, preferably one with protein, shampoo is essential. For fine hair, I love Aestalance's DF or GL shampoo or Davines' Melu shampoo. For coarse dry hair, Davines' Oi shampoo or Aestalance's MC shampoo. For conditioner Aestalance's Protein mask is a top seller in my salon or Davines' Nou Nou mask. How much you use depends on your hair type but those aforementioned are suitable for many across the board.


When in doubt ask your hair care professional. That's what we are here for, to educate you, not to sell you product you don't need. If your stylist isn't telling you these things...look for one who will. 


Next time we will delve into appropriate products and tools usage!


Knowledge is wealth and beauty!

The View From Behind the Chair

By Roots Radicals Salon • October 8, 2019
So, for those of you who don’t know me, allow me to introduce myself (I cannot help but read that like JayZ). Hola I’m Kimberly Jones, I prefer Kim. I’ve been doing hair since 2006. I am the proud founder of Roots Radicals Salon, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, established in 2012. It hasn’t been an easy journey, my venture into becoming a salon owner, but very rewarding to say the least, I’ll save that for later blog posts. I want to take a little bit of a detour from my usual blog posts to touch on a topic that is a little bit more important, or better yet that solidifies the foundation of having great hair and in turn a better perception of ourselves. I can say my clientele is pretty balanced between men and women. What is not balanced though, is the way in which they address themselves. Unfortunately, more often than not, women might start our conversations with a subtle self deprecating remark and proceed to put themselves down throughout our whole appointment together, unbeknownst to themselves. It is subtle but the more I notice it, the more profound a mark it has left on me. Because I SEE MYSELF DOING IT TOO! Men rarely do this. They are either not interested in divulging this with me or it’s just not on their radar. This is most likely because of the pressure for women to be every and all things while still being held to the highest level of attractiveness. It most definitely isn't because they are not comfortable to share intimate thoughts with me, they do, trust me. It’s just that most men aren’t picking themselves apart as we women do, again , myself included. The carefree bliss that must come along with this freedom must be glorious. And my sisters I want that for us. So what I have been doing to start to achieve this for us is… ::drum roll:: Showing you ladies the mirror. The figurative one, not the floor length one you sit in front of in my chair, the one that says “hey, did you hear what you just said?”. My aesthetician, whom I adore dearly and has changed my skin for the better, that also is another blog post, fellow fierce boss lady Elizabeth Taylor (owner of True Beauty in Williamsburg) made me aware that I am guilty of it as well. I have been sharing this observation more and more with my female clientele and have been getting phenomenal feedback. Which is why I am hoping to share it with a wider audience. Screaming it from my virtual mountaintop. It’s important to hear, be reminded, that we are enough, just the way we are. Anything else is just improving. In this moment right now, which is all we really have, we are whole and perfectly ourselves. LET THAT SINK IN. The thoughts and underhanded comments we make about ourselves cut more than we realize. It becomes a narrative that is more disparaging than we are aware of. Our subconscious starts to believe this and replay it back on a constant sick loop of self doubt and deprecation. Everyone does this, not just women. Everyone can benefit from this message. My point is that I hear it from women way more than men, so much more, that it prompted me to write about it and actively talk about it. Some women sit down in my chair and right in the beginning of the consultation start with a negative comment about their looks. I stop it right there. I know it is unnerving to sit in front of a large mirror and talk about one’s appearance but how can we rock what is going to be an amazing haircut and/or color ::wink wink:: if we don’t have the most important accessory? Oh what accessory is that you ask? Confidence. The confidence that allows you to don whatever look that compliments your face shape, lifestyle, hair type etc. It’s confidence that shines through all the extra adornment and trappings. I’m not necessarily saying this so we are more attractive. That would feed into exactly what I’m speaking out against. I’m saying it so we can be a little more free. Free to live more meaningful lives. Lives of purpose and fulfillment. Inner calm begets outer calm. How can we do that if we are inside our heads all day with these limiting beliefs on loop? It starts with being aware of that narrative. Once we can identify and see those comments for what they are. We can start challenging those thoughts and change the negative feed. Then we can feel light and in turn we can shine our light bright for others to see and feel. It’s infectious. And maybe in that lightness, we can spread joy and pay it forward. And we can just have a little bit more kindness radiating in the world today. So remember, whoever you are, when you sit down in front of any mirror, not just a stylists, most especially your own, be kind to yourself. Say nice things in the mirror. Thoughts become things. Our reality is what we make it. Make yours a great one. Start now! All we have is right now. Now that's beauty.

Q and A with latest-hairstyles.com

By Roots Radicals Salon • May 25, 2018
1. What cut, style, or color are you most proud of doing? Kim: Man that’s a tough question. I try to make myself proud daily with each client. I know that sounds pretty cheesy but I honestly mean it. I give 110% to each person that sometimes by the end of the day I’m depleted. Life of a stylist. I love being behind the chair. I’d have to say all the changes I’ve been able to achieve, with the trust of one of my favorite clients ever. My client Marisa has gone on a journey with me throughout the years, from Brown to fire engine Red to blonde to pink to brunette to rose gold! I have to say that is my shining accomplishment. The ability to have someone trust their tresses to you and you can come through for them. They have shiny long hair throughout the process. It’s a really cool thing. Yup final answer. ;) 2. What's your absolute favorite hair trend right now and why? (can be any photo you find on the web) Kim: I am loving wavy grazing the shoulder length or medium length cuts. They look great curly or wavy. Very versatile. It’s trending so hard at the moment, and there is a reason why! It’s flattering, full stop! The sexiest part of a woman is the clavicle. Exposing shoulders and décolletés is so on trend yet timeless. Short hair is super fun and feminine. Stop hiding behind your hair ladies! Also let’s talk about curly hair being all the craze. Curly bangs are my kryptonite. I am a sucker for curly bangs. Big curly hair is taking over and I’m so here for this moment. Gone are the days of flat ironing hair into the homogeneous incognito oblivion. Let your curls speak volumes! 3. What inspires you as an artist? Kim: Get ready for the cornball answer of the century: it’s making people feel happy to look in the mirror. We all struggle with that. Every single one of us whether we choose to admit it or not. It’s being able to navigate the tricky space between how a person perceives themselves and how they’d like the world to perceive them. The circumnavigation of a client’s wants, without them necessarily knowing the vernacular or the desired end result. It’s an intricate dance we do with clients that I’m blessed I’m still able to do and extract so much joy from after so many years. Thanks. That was a lot of fun! Click on the link to see this article on their site: http://www.latest-hairstyles.com/#@rootsradicalskim Check out my other feature on their website: http://www.latest-hairstyles.com/color/brunette/chocolate-brown.html#32 

To Style or Not to Style

By Roots Radicals Salon • February 15, 2017
Let's talk styling. What products do you need? What tools are appropriate for your hair type? I will discuss the basics so whether you're a wash and go'er, occasional styler, a complete novice in need of guidance, or a professional, there are tips for everyone. The right foundation makes it easy for everyone to leave the house looking and feeling effortlessly beautiful. It starts in the shower with your shampoo and conditioner, so if you haven't read the previous blog, Art Of The Shampoo, you've made an egregious mistake! I kid, I kid but do go back and check it out. Blow Dryers You don't have to break the bank with a blow dryer. You can find a good blow dryer for about $150, which may sound expensive to some, but is worth the investment and pretty reasonable for a professional dryer. My go to favorite brand is Twin Turbo. What I love about these dryers is that if something were to happen to it, you can send it to the company and get it fixed for free if under warranty and at a low cost if it's not. A powerful ionic ceramic blow dryer means less time spent drying. Time is money. So what are you waiting for? Chuck the $20 Conair and get a real blow dryer. You'll see the difference after your first use. And don't throw out the attachments!! Your nozzle is the most important one. It concentrates the hot air flow to where it needs to be, meaning smoother, shinier hair. Also diffusers are god sends for curly hair. Speaking of curly hair, when I wear my hair naturally curly, I do all my styling in the shower and then let air dry a little and finish it off with the diffuser. High heat, low speed until completely dry and then spray hair spray or texturizer and blast it with cold air to set everything. The cold button is magic! Don't overlook it. It sets curls. It makes your hair shiny. It gives hair a tousled lived in look. Use it! Brushes There are a lot of brushes on the market. I'm going to go over the basics. The ones I think everyone should have. A detangling brush A flat plastic/boar (combo) bristle brush A round boar bristle brush Those are it. Anything else is a luxury, if you're not a stylist like me. As I've mentioned, in the previous post, I LOVE the Wet Brush. It's the best detangling brush in my opinion. It is only meant for that. DO NOT USE WITH HEAT. It will melt. This is an integral tool in your vanity because excessive mechanical stress (brushing, flat ironing, tight ponytails, etc) leads to breakage. So if you’re snapping off precious strands in the beginning of your styling routine than there leaves very little room for error in the rest. To easily detangle hair, do it in the shower with your conditioner on (as we discussed in the Art Of The Shampoo). Or use the Shine Brush or a Denman flat boar bristle brush on dry hair. The natural boar bristles are the only brushes that distribute oil. Plastic paddle brushes do not. So oil, concentrated at your scalp, does not get redistributed to the ends, where it's needed, with a regular paddle brush. Flat brushes are great for blow drying bangs, bobs and straight hair. Round brushes are for hair that needs a little more tension: curly/wavy, thick or layered hair that needs body and movement. Metal round brushes are way too harsh for most hair types and yet that's what most people are using on their hair at home. I can tell, it shows when you flat iron too much or if you are using one of those brushes. The metal barrel gets way too hot and the plastic bristles are too tough and don't distribute oil. A round brush like a Spornette gives you the tension and shine you need for a wavy bouncy blow out with minimal damaging side effects. Clips Clips keep you organized so you can work efficiently and effectively. They also can take the place of ponytail holders that, are in my honest albeit dramatic opinion, akin to El Diablo. A simple chignon clip like the YS Park one come in many different colors and can be used for a quick and easy impromptu up-do, which looks way more chic than a ponytail sometimes. I also love those Goody mini round claw clips. I even sleep with them in to preserve my blow dry for a few days. While blow drying clip the extra hair out of the way so you power through quicker. Always start in the front, that way if you get tired at least the front looks great and get as much excess water out before you use your brush. Never start blow drying soaking wet hair. It will take you forever and hair is easier to stretch and snap when it's wet. Healthier hair is the goal right? Flat/Curling Iron I need to get this off my chest...flat irons are evil. Ok, Ok not pure evil but they're pretty bad if abused. If you flat iron everyday your hair shows the wear and tear. Trust me, I can spot a flat ironer the minute they sit in my chair. It causes excessive breakage. Occasional flat iron use is fine. I think it is one of the best inventions in the hair industry. Dependency on it as a main styling tool, instead of for touch ups, is problematic. Meaning no more than a pass or two of that flat iron. And its always the ladies with straight fine hair that are addicted that don't even need to own one. If you are going to use one then make sure its ceramic. Same goes for your curling irons. NO METAL. Now curling irons are my favorite!!! They can seal the cuticle, polish a look and add texture. Curl with these ladies and not your flat iron. Products Heat protectant Leave in conditioner Finishing serum/oil Hairspray Texturizer Dry shampoo Matte pomade These are a few of your basic products that you may need/want in your beauty toolbox. Again we are trying to help simplify your hair routine, so this is a simple list. You can decide which ones fit into your lifestyle. Heat Protectant This product would only be for those who heat style. For fine hair I prefer sprays that tend to not weigh down strands like Davines' Melu Shield or Aestalance's Energy. For normal to thicker hair I love Davines' Oi All In One Milk. I am not too big of a fan of oils. They tend to not be user friendly. Even distribution can be tricky, can ruin a hairstyle and even require additional shampooing sometimes! Who has time for do-overs? Creams and balms are a little easier in terms of application but should be avoided if you have fine hair. The best time for application of a heat protectant is when hair is damp and towel dried, before you blow dry. Do not apply before using a curling/flat iron!! Hair should always be dry before you use any hot tools. Applying oil or spray before using hot tools can significantly damage hair, use these finishing products for, yup you guessed it, when you're finished. Leave In conditioner I like leave ins for when you just want to throw a product in and go. It helps control frizz, adds a little sheen and light hold. For the super low maintenance styler this is your go to product. I love the Aestalance Balm. Finishing Serum/oil, Hairspray, Texturizer, Dry Shampoo, And Matte Pomade Better known as your finishers. Best used when hair is dry. Whether going for a slightly undone, tousled or beachy look or a polished, sleek style, all of these products work. Serums will give a more shiny tousled look. Dry shampoo will give more body. Texturizers will give a more starchy messy look. For the sexy disheveled look, my fav concoction is to mix serum and matte pomade together and add to the mid shaft and ends of hair. I adore Davines' This is an invisible serum. My all time favorite product I couldn't live without is HAIRSPRAY!! I love a workable, brushable hairspray that has a good curl memory. There are so many good ones out there. I love Bumble and Bumble's Spray De Mode (the fragrance leaves a lot to be desired though). All in all, healthy hair should be your goal, because healthy hair is pretty hair. Healthy hair makes color and styles look good or better. It makes styling easier or not styling at all a possibility, depending on hair type. This simple list should help streamline your styling routine and arsenal. Remember you don't need a lot, you just need the right things. When in doubt, ask your stylist. That's what we are here for. Knowledge is wealth and beauty! 
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